When asked what was her favorite food, Diana Vreeland famously responded “Salad, though I’m not sure it is food.â€
Mr. Henry’s friend Bernard, superb home chef and coiner of original observations, declared decades ago that although he was giving the kids pizza one night, “Pizza is not food.â€
Michael Pollan’s new book, In Defense of Food: an eater’s manifesto, declares: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.â€
It’s a book replete with genius:
“Don’t eat anything you can’t pronounce.”
“Don’t eat anything that contains more than five ingredients.”
“Eat mostly plants, especially green leaves.”
And so on until you want to sign the manifesto and wear the button on your lapel, if not for its practical good sense than certainly for its wit.
Of this three-part directive, the trickiest one to follow is “Eat food.†Modern industrialized food markets are cluttered with “foodlike substances†– comestibles that at first bite seem tasty and toothsome but quickly sicken or addict the organism.
As a quick reference for friends and relations, Mr. Henry provides the following inventory of everyday horrors:
Foodlike substances
candy
doughnuts
packaged cupcakes
packaged snacks
chips of all varieties
pretzels
American cheese
processed cheese
“spreadsâ€
cheese sticks, twists, etc.
bologna
hot dogs
Spam
McAnything
Pizza Hut, et.al.
KFC
tacos
Subway sandwiches
Cosi focaccia
bottled salad dressings
processed peanut butter
jelly
“snack foodâ€
breakfast bars
pop tarts
sweetened breakfast cereals
Drinklike substances
soda
vitamin water
protein drinks
fruit drinks
Budweiser